PIck a gasket. It's not that critical. I've used many different kinds, and all the "name brands" work fine. Heck, my employer used to buy 25-packs of bulk gaskets, and even they worked OK. As said, the pan needs to be flat at the bolt holes except that old-time pans often had a sealing ridge embossed into the metal between the bolt holes.
Install the gasket CLEAN and DRY. NO gasket sealer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69camarox
check the linkage seal it leaks down onto the edge of the pan gasket and runs around the gasket making it look like a pan leak when it is not
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Yup, gravity and wind will move the ATF all around. Lots of "pan gasket leaks" have nothing to do with the pan gasket.
I've fixed a bunch of "pan gasket leaks" by
re-sealing the manual shaft, (any trans, but TH350 seem to be the most popular)
re-sealing the modulator valve,
re-sealing the torque converter, (verify the position of the converter bushing in the pump--Fords were especially bad at having the bushing shift which blocks the drainback hole.)
re-sealing the dipstick tube (after replacing the tube because it's cracked at the O-ring groove.)
re-sealing the speedo drive gear and/or housing (sometimes have to replace the driven gear due to groove worn in the plastic by the seal.)
Other sources are the kickdown cable/TV cable on a TH350 or TH700, and the O-ring around the electrical connector on a TH400.