Ok, please don't put words in my mouth, I have a pretty good ability to make a fool out of myself without help! Heheh!
I really don't think you're comparing apples to apples here. Let's take this example. Take a quart of oil, and a quart of pump gasoline, put them in a gas can and shake for 1 min. Then pour it thru one of your magical filters, how much comes out? 2 quarts, right? Minus whatever gets trapped in the filter. That's because no WAY can filter media SEPARATE the 2 fluids. Period. It's a filter, not a separator, the media is fiber based, and depending on how close the fibers are meshed is what dictates the size of PARTICLES that get removed.
You're correct, that fuel (light hydrocarbons) cannot be separated from oil (heavy hydrocarbons) with out heat. If you have a quart of fuel in your oil you have a mechanical problem. Normal blowby/fuel contamination will vaporize as the oil gets hot, vaporizes and is pulled out of the crankcase by the PCV system. No filter or mechanical means can separate fuel and oil. Heat will, oil under normal circumstances has plenty of heat to vaporize the small amount of fuel that bypasses the rings. It works the same way that crude oil is cracked in a tower under heat the light hydrocarbons vaporize sooner than the heavier hydrocarbons rising out of the oil and being sucked out of the crankcase by engine vacuum (PCV) to be reburned in the engine.
Now I won't argue that it does filter down to smaller particles than typical off the shelf consumer auto filters. But. Because of bearing clearances, etc, it's debatable how much damage that would actually cause.
As I already have stated very clearly, SAE has papers written on it, and GM has done 2 studies that cite that wear will be reduced 3.6 times (360% more efficient) so I think it's proven by well qualified sources, it's not up for discussion on how much damage it actually causes. The 5-15 micron particulate is the most damaging and causes the most wear. It goes unabated in a standard filter and can easily make it's way into even the tightest clearance parts in any engine. It's like fine dust after a dust storm that makes it into homes no matter how well they are sealed up. The fine stuff that is capable of going anywhere oil flows is the abrasives that wear engines, the stuff that passes right through your full flow 40 micron media filter
Now, when it comes to service/fleet vehicles, not only do they have much better oil filtration, but air filtration as well.
Silica that is ingested through the air tract is always present no matter what air filter system you're using. Silica is very damaging to any IC engine and some of it will end up in the oil, Exactly why you should have a oil filter that filters oil to 1-2 microns, not 40 microns
Oil analysis, there are many types of oil analysis, and the basic ones measure PARTICULAR material contaminates. Yes, they look for others, but generally, only if there is more than X contamination. And they certainly don't measure oil additives.
Oil additives, they wear out. That generally is not only from X use, but also X time. No filtration system will RESTORE additives. When they are gone, they're gone. And most additives are more important in gasoline apps, because there is such a variation in quality, mainly from poor storage.
Oil additives wear out when they are in dirty oil and are used up quickly (they're sacrificial). In clean oil the additive package remains much longer, plus it gets a boost from makeup oil that is added when the filter media is changed. It should never get to a point where the oil is in any danger of being additive deficient.
They actually do measure oil additives in an engine oil analysis, I'm not sure why you think the additive package isn't appraised when the oil condition is analyzed, it is very important to the overall condition of the oil. Trace metal as well as trace coolant is also analyzed. Coolant and fuel contamination is also very important, as it shows mechanical problems in the cooling system as well as the fuel system.
I could keep going, about carb/efi, and gas/diesel, SCRs, but I don't need to, it's obvious. I don't doubt bypass filters are better, but they generally look crappy in a musclecar engine bay. And I'm not going to carry a pack of Charmin in the garage. People would ask what the heck it was for. And then I would have to explain while trying to drown out laughter.
Only the Frantz filter uses TP as a media, Charmin isn't the type media that works anyway. it's the worst possible media you could choose because it has air pockets woven into the paper. The media needs rough single ply janitorial quality paper packed as densely as possible.
Amsoil, Baldwin, WIX/NAPA all make spin on by pass filters from cellulose as well as glass media, you can take your pick, and they look same as a single remote filter. My 05 GTO has a Frantz filter on it and I've never had anyone look under the hood that even noticed it was a TP oil filter. It doesn't go on the outside of the canister, it goes inside of it...…….
Someone once told me the majority of the cost of auto oil was due to the additives and the packaging. Not sure if that's true, but I think I'm ok with spending like 25 bucks to do an oil change every 3-5k miles. Then I KNOW it's fresh, contaminants are removed, and additives are replenished. It's a cost I'm willing to accept, and it works.
I use only synthetic oils so I'm not going to throw it out every 3-5,000 miles, but you feel free to keep doing what you're doing if you feel you're doing yourself a favor.
I'm really more concerned with avoiding the wear on the engine parts, 99% less wear over the last 7 years on my personal vehicles is monumental.
Read my oil change intervals compared to yours, I run the oil 10 times longer, I get at least 20 times better filtration, 1-2 micron as compared to 40 microns, over 100% of the life of the oil, it doesn't decline the longer the oil is in the crankcase because it's being continually contaminated with sub 40 micron particles. If it doesn't work as described, how can I possibly run oil that long with no adverse effect? There is no additive or oil that is capable of doing anywhere near what I have outlined. Clean oil never degrades in a bottle, if it's kept the same through filtering, it really doesn't degrade nearly as fast in an engine. It does eventually degrade, but it takes years, and many running hours to get to the point that the oil loses it's ability to safely protect the engine parts. That's the reason for oil analysis
As noted I run these on my own vehicles for 7 years, I know first hand that the claims made about by pass oil filtration will do more to eliminate engine wear, while safely extending oil change intervals. The information I post is first hand from my own vehicles, not regurgitated spin.
I'm 65 and have been around anything mechanical all my life, made my living fixing everything with an engine in it. For 40 plus years I changed oil as everyone else does because I made my living wrenching, and put the best quality filters in customer vehicles as well as my own vehicles. Took me long enough to find out how deficient the OEM filter system is.
From my signature pictures you could see I raced dirt track Pontiacs, I'm not new, or inexperienced to what works, and what doesn't work. I paid my dues in mistakes and dollars. I just want some of the people to look at alternative oil filtration that will save you oil, labor, money, and engine wear, nothing subversive, just wish there was some consideration to a better system, than the crappy system that DOESN'T keep the oil clean.
If it kept the oil clean the oil wouldn't turn black, feel gritty between your fingers, and have to be tossed out when the only thing that turns it unusable is suspended dirt which depletes the additives prematurely. Think about a filter that is selective about how much it filters out, is that efficient? Not really, because Detroit placed the filter in the wrong place because it was cheap to place it where they did, a compromise that requires a by pass valve bandaid to keep the wear parts from starving under adverse conditions. Some engineers estimate that an engine by pass valve is open 30% of the time, efficient?
Blocking the by pass in a Pontiac (or any engine) is only forcing the oil to run through an inefficient 40 micron filter. Don't think it's inefficient, it will still get dirty, even forcing all of the engine oil through it all the time, you still have to change it, correct me if I'm wrong.