[Tom Vaught]

In the 1st Picture if you look closely you can see the Center Squirter under the Air Cleaner Bale.

In the second Picture you can see the Cam/slot linkage used to open the secondaries.
There is a very small amount of travel before the secondaries are starting to open.

In the Third Picture you can see the opposite side of the carb.
You can see the square plug in the metering block where the Ported Spark Nipple would go. (Hose from nipple to the Vacuum Can nipple).

In the Fourth Picture you will see a better view of how short the primary blade travel is before the secondary blades will begin to open.

The last picture (in this group of 5) shows two important things:

1) Never put the Phillips Head Screws in the two center locations of the throttle Blade base WITHOUT a plate under the screws (that can keep the center screws from falling into the intake at exactly the wrong time. The carb will seal fine without them being installed.

2) The slotted passage connecting the rear carb barrels is a great area to provide by-pass air (and keep the Primary blade position perfect in relation to the Transfer Slots).
What you do is remove the "Flat Blade Screwdriver Plug" on the baseplate and thread in a aluminum plug that has a orifice that allows the idle rpm you want. Basically does exactly the same asm the Barry Grant IDLE-EZE system or the Holley Idle Air Bleed system on some of the HP and Ultra carbs. Buy the plug, start with a small .062 hole drilling and then increase the hole size until you get the idle speed you want the engine to idle at. Different engine, drill a different plug for that engine. You can do the bleed on both carbs and make the flow area 1/2 the size if you want bleed air coming into both carbs, like on a MT Cross Ram.

Tom V.