[Cliff R]

The only time I've seen points fail is when the engine stalled out and the key was left on for an extended period of time and the points just happened to be closed.

Kind of interesting but I drove and raced a 1970 440 powered Roadrunner for many years. Drove it all thru High School and had it quite a few years after I got married. It had a set of the better Mallory points made back in the 1970's with the thick rubbing block on them, not the later production with the short block. I ran the SAME set of points in 3 different engines the entire time and zero issues. Aside from checking the gap occasionally and running a folded up piece of 600 grit auto body sandpaper between the contacts to smooth them out, they never grumbled once. I'll bet I had the big 440 to 6000 rpms at least a zillion times and it NEVER faltered or even acted like it just would keep right on revving.

The key to long point life is to make sure you have the correct ballast resistor in place or using the factory wire to the coil that has the resistance built it. Also stay away from "bug zapping" coils, they can be very hard on the points and LOTS of folks that went that route back when I was in High School had continuous issues with points ignition systems.

I also saw it mentioned someplace about using a points distributor to signal an MSD. Several folks I know do that for dedicated drag racing applications and have had the same points in place for decades with zero issues.

Any type of electronic ignition system that uses a module will eventually fail, it's just the nature of those things. I've had far better success yanking used 990 modules out of junk yard and swap meet distributors that buying anything over the counter. The 990 module in my current HEI is from the mid 1970's and still doing fine. Right on the dyno that HEI outran an MSD billet unit in a back to back test, not by much but it did make slightly more power clear across the loaded RPM range.......FWIW........Cliff