[Cliff R]

A good part to help out with valve adjustments is to add a Ford type starter solenoid with the push-button option. They are around $15-25 on line, someone may be able to provide a link to one. I buy mine at NAPA locally.

I did this decades ago on the Ventura and it allows one person valve adjustments and very easy to "bump" the engine around to get it right where you want it for each rocker.

I've been using the intake all the way open/set the exhaust and exhaust just starts to open set the intake method for making valve adjustments dating clear back to the 1970's.

For hydraulic lifter set-ups, especially with the vast array of parts we have today it is best to measure the available pre-load in your lifters during the engine building process.

A much regurgitated method to adjust is to simply determine zero lash and go an additional 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. I've found in recent years that it is best to bottom the plungers completely out when doing this on the engine stand then back them up to establish plunger distance in the middle of it's travel range.

This accomplishes two things, it makes sure something wasn't hanging up someplace as the rockers got tightened down and takes the "feel" of trying to determine zero lash with lifters that aren't pump-up out of the equation. There will be no doubt in anyone's mind when you bottom out a plunger as the pushrods instantly become impossible to turn by hand and easy is you just nudge the adjusters back just a tad.

At this point you can predict exact plunger placement in the lifters by simply backing them all up the same distance or number of turns.

With the quality control of lifters these days and plunger to body clearances/leak down rates all over the place it also works out better if you have the plungers deeper in the lifter bodies than shallow. In theory it really shouldn't matter, but if you are like me I can't buy a complete set of hydraulic lifters where I don't get at least one "ticker" in the bunch on a hot engine if they are set about 1/2 turn or so down from zero lash.

In the past 15 years or so I've been spending more time in that area when engine building and have found that lifters, especially HR's have underwent some changes to available plunger travel and how strong the spring is under the plungers. Most that show up these days will be shorter travel and stronger spring as a general rule.

Anyhow, I would recommend to folks building an engine to make sure you are well on the base circle, either following TDC on your marked balancer or use the intake open/exhaust just starting to open deal and follow things around while you turn the engine. Use a magic marker to mark each rocker when finished to avoid confusion.

My current engine runs a "tight lash" set-up or "hybrid" running Crower HIPPO lifters on a HR camshaft. I've been setting them at .005" dead cold and they grow about .002-.003" or so fully heat soaked. Some throw rocks at this set-up but mine has been flawless since 2009 and the quietest engine I've ever had under the hood of any car when it comes to valve train noise. It also takes the hydraulic lifter action OUT of the equation. This engine will rev right past 6000 rpms so quick you can't move the shifter fast enough to get it shifter before 6500rpm's. My previous HR cammed engine started showing signs of lifter "pump-up" around 5800rpm's and I've seen many HR Pontiac engines start to go South on the dyno about the same place. Not really a big deal since we typically cam for and shoot for peak power about 5500-5800rpms........Cliff