Quote:
Originally Posted by 74Grandville
when installing the washer install the beveled edge down.
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Absolutely NOT!
The bevel is to provide clearance for the extended fillet between bolt shank and bolt head. therefore the bevel goes against the bolt head--it faces UP.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgarblik
I would coat the threads of the bolts and both sides of the washer with ARP lube. You want the washer to act as a bearing and it doesn't matter if the washer spins or the bolt spins on the washer.
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Nope. Lube the underside of the bolt head so it slides against the washer. Don't lube the bottom of the washer or the bolt pad on the cylinder head.
From the ARP web-site
https://arp-bolts.com/p/FAQ.php
Quote:
Do I need lube on my bolts or studs?
We recommend using ARP Ultra-Torque lube to ensure an even, accurate clamp load and to prevent thread galling. This is particularly important for stainless steel fasteners. The lube should be used under the head of the bolt or the bearing surface of the nut and on the threads, unless a thread sealer is used.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 74Grandville
make sure to use the ARP lube. think of this as retorquing the head bolts, which you would have needed to do anyway.
use the ARP torque spec
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How did the machinist attach the torque plate? What bolts? What torque? What lube?
You need to use the same procedure to attach the heads as the machinist used to attach the torque plate. Change the lube, change the torque, or change the amount of thread engagement, and the cylinders aren't round any more. The ideal would be for the machinist to have used ARP lube, ARP bolts, and ARP torque-spec when attaching the torque plate, with the same thread engagement as you'd have when installing the head. Then you do the same.
If the block wasn't torque-plate honed...I'd stay with stock torque and engine oil for lube, exactly as Pontiac intended. (I'd also be using OEM bolts in that case, not ARP.)