[Gary H]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

It is a blind hole, no access from the other side (as the oil passages are on the passenger side) and the drivers side has casting material supporting the bellhousing bolt hole on that side as well as the Starter Mount ear of the block.

The dowels on the 3 blocks I looked at all had a very short exposed length before the taper so getting a gripping tool on the dowel would be very difficult.

Drilling/Tapping the dowels is the only choice. I personally would prefer to use a drilled and tapped dowel and then a circular ring larger than the dowel to allow the dowel to be pulled from the block using a washer, bolt and breaker bar/socket.

Too many chances to break the block using the bottom of the dowel hole as the "force point" to force the dowel from the block bore.

Richie H. has the right method.

Tom V.

No Tom, you're wrong. You CAN use a puller to pull the pins. My machine shop has one made by Snap On that will work on the GM 5/8" pins. When we dyno engines at his shop he uses it to replace the stock pins with the longer ones. Works great! I just don't want to spend Snap On type money to buy a puller that I only use 2 -3 times a year