Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMounce
Looking at the first picture of the combination valve, I don’t see a plumbing issue. The valves is backwards from typical mounting but the rear reservoirs is feeding the rear brake and the front reservoirs feeding the front brake.
I’m sure this isn’t the issue, but just to check everything off the list, is the brake pedal clevice installed in the proper hole in the pedal? Or at all?
For quite a while I had literally the exact issue you’re dealing with. Turned out that the pushrod clevice pin was literally not attached. The brakes “worked” because the pushrod would still be pushed by the pedal, but because the clevice was not in the correct position the pedal ratio was terrible.
Another area to look at is the pushrod to piston clearance in the master cylinder. If there is excessive clearance, you’re using a lot of pedal travel before you start applying hydraulic pressure.
You can try moving the pushrod to the top hole in the pedal. If it gets considerably better it’s either a pedal ratio issue or a fluid volume issue (likely pushrod to piston clearance).
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Pushrod is in the top hole.
Braking improved slightly (still marginal stopping) when I shortened the pushrod slightly. Additional shortening/lengthening mase no improvement. As regards "a hodgepodge of parts", what I have is no different than the components furnished in complete kits and the booster is an improvement over the "throw-away flowerpot" 9" boosters that come in most kits.
I have suspected the master cylinder is inclined too far and the fluid volume in the master is diminished by the angle but others on the board said not an issue.
My plan is as follows with road test after each change:
1) Swap the angled booster brackets for straight ones, verify change
2) Add a vacuum can, verify
3) Add vacuum pump, verify
4) Install 1" MC w. current booster, verify
5) Convert to manual brakes, verify
6. Give up and retire the car to storage until a cure can be found.