Quote:
Originally Posted by 61-63
You can pull the tops off of your carbs, with the carbs on the engine, and use pin gauges or small drill bits to determine jet sizes, and a dial micrometer to determine the diameters of the metering rod steps, and go from there. It may be that you can reach the calibrations I suggested for the primary jets by changing your metering rods alone? I don't know what you consider "optimum performance" or why you feel you don't have it but the best way to check for it is by using a wide band air/fuel ratio gauge, and after that just reading your plugs. If your engine is falling on it's nose shortly after you put your foot all the way into it your problem is most likely float level.
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Thanks for your reply.
What is in there now is more rich than the original settings I believe. The front carburetor has .100 jets in the primaries and .098 jets in the secondaries. The metering rods are 075 x 047 with orange springs.
The rear carburetor has .101 jets in primaries and .098 jets in secondaries. The metering rods are 075 x 047 with orange springs.
I did check and reset float levels last week. They were a little off but not much. It is not falling on it's nose at WOT, but just not what I imagine should happen with all the extra air/fuel flow that is available when I get into it. I had a couple of single four barrel 400s over the years that would really pull strong, so my expectations are relative to those days. I'm expecting a bit more out of a stroked 467 with head work done. I was previously running stock 62 heads.
This is strictly "seat of the pants" judgment of performance. I don't have access to a dyno. I have considered a wide band AFR but I believe to get meaningful information out of it, that would need to be a permanent installation rather than the kind you hang in your exhaust pipe while not driving. Is that correct?