[Jay S]

The blocks are line honed for the long main studs, and the supports are shimmed to get the correct distance between the pan rails and the halos. May have to put a shim under the engine mounts on cars with tight cross member clearance. But it only drops the pan a quarter of an inch. Caps are totally stock.

I haven’t decided if the cap dowels should be enlarged a size, should be stock diameter dowels or should use roll pins on the weaker blocks. Earlier blocks won’t be a issue. Part of R&D is which of those options has the least cap walk without flexing the block at the dowel holes, which is where the 500557s fail. Right now one engine has roll pins, the other is using dowels.

The halo alone requires no machine work, just line hone the main caps for main studs. For the pan supports with higher hp probably drilling and tapping the pan bolts to 3/8 is a good idea. We are using stock 5/16” studs on the pan starting out though. The other option for higher hp is to use thick cross supports on the halos then machine the caps flat for cap support. The caps would be machined for that, I am hoping that is not neccessary.