Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff R
"The factory did fix it, but one person I spoke with attributed it to using 87 octane fuel, even though the manual never states that I should use premium fuel, I still do in the 2 stroke engines."
For sure higher octane will help your 2 stroke power equipment but P/C failure is directly related to being too lean on the "H" speed screw which causes excessive engine RPM's, high EGT's, and less lubricant all at the same time. This melts/smears some aluminum from the piston over the rings on the exhaust side and it's DONE. For at least 20 years now the factory has been installing limiter caps on the carburetor adjustment screws, some are even non-adjustable, or take "special" tools to adjust them. This is all thanks to the EPA and causes a lot of engine failures.
This new fuel also looses octane when sitting for long periods of time making start-ups difficult. I had a Honda generator brought here a while back, only used once a few years ago after a storm took out the power here for over a week. It refused to start and I just figured the carb was gummed up, but it was clean. I ended up dumping the fuel (owner had put Stabil in it) outside the shop in the gravel and tried to light it on fire. It simply would NOT burn, at least with simple attempts to light it which typically would have you running for your life with good gasoline. We ended up getting it to light with a propane torch but it burned very slowly, more like kerosene that gasoline. Anyhow I put fresh fuel in the generator and it roared to life.
There are also other things that can lead to poor cold starts, first and foremost is the accl pump in the carburetor. Many pump seals will shrink when the carb dries up and it may take a few minutes of contact with fuel before they start working. Without some pump shot cold starts are nearly impossible even if you have fuel in the carburetor bowl.
So combine poor pump shot or lack of it with gas that has lost it's ability to burn well and you will have difficult cold starts in that particular vehicle......Cliff
|
The engine failure was just exactly as you described it, this was roughly around 1993, not sure if the factory was running the high speed circuit that lean back that far, or not. I wasn't going to mess with the carb at that point, it was running fine, and still almost a new saw. It ran just fine, until it didn't, only had about 10 hours on the saw when it failed.
I got the run around at first, from the dealer I bought it from, I then talked to a person at Husqvarna, and he told me it was my fault, citing the generic 2 stroke oil, and 87 octane fuel. I took it to another dealer and he contacted a field rep to look at it. This rep was cool, and he told the dealer to warranty it, said they had some defective cages on the connecting rod roller bearings that caused this failure, so it was taken care of.
Had he not run it through under warranty I would have never bought another Husky saw again. To date I've had 4 of them, and only that one has failed. It was a good saw after the warranty repair, but was eventually stolen.
BTW, I have the set of tamper proof carb tools, I do feel my current saw is set pretty lean, and would benefit from a tweeking of the carb. I bought this saw roughly 2 years ago, it has the primer bulb on it. I mostly use it for trimming the trees on my property, as I no longer have a wood stove to heat the house. I do use wood to heat the garage, but I have nearly a cord of seasoned wood right now.
