Quote:
Originally Posted by Firedup6975
Ok now that you kids are done with your OCD malarkey has anyone used the gold paint from Summit called Placer Gold? I need a picture please. I like the fact it al ready in the spray can ready to use, instead of having to set up a spray gun and mixing etc. Wheels are about to get prepped for paint as soon as I find one wheel I need as one of the ones I was gonna use has a chunk out of the edge. Here’s a couple pics you guys might like, Mike loves to fabricate stuff, and made a tool to spin and polish the wheels. I will post pics of done wheels when done. These pics are just of the wheel being fitted to this dohicky thingy lol.
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Things I have learned, and I have refinished a few.
1. The Aluminum where you paint CANNOT be perfectly smooth.
2. You do NOT want to use a " non catalyzed " paint ( one stage from a paint spray bomb) 2 stage paint with a catalyst bonds to activator to the color AND to the substrate being painted IF it has a good " tooth" surface.
This information is for cars being driven. Obviously a show only car gets pampering.
3. Spray clear coating. You want to use a catalyzed 2 part clear for spot repair, med dry time. This is thinner than your finish clear or high solids clear on a restoration. Eastwood has a 2k spray can clear I have used and it works well, no mixing, just shaking up the can.
4. I have taped off the spokes with high heat tape and powder coated the color before with good results.
5. You Cannot powder coat clear over a spray bomb paint, even if it is high heat, or catalyzed, with good results.