[steve25]

In no particular order here’s my 2 cents worth.

The performer rpm intake buys you nothing but a average loss of torque due to
1) a 3.750” stroke motor.
2) only 9 to 1 compression,
3) stock heads, no less small intake valve heads!

You will be far better off with a iron intake, or a standard performer.

Your Cam is a little big for neck snapping throttle response with only 9 to 1 compression, especially if your keeping the smog era gearing in the rear of the car!

You might think about adding Rhoads lifters if you do not mind the solid type lifter noise when hot?

Your valve springs should swap over to the number 15 heads just fine, but may need to be shimmed back up since they are used since you to have at least 120 psi on the seat with a 1.96” valve.

This shim process will hopefully still leave you with enough coil bind clearance and will have to be determined.

You did not state the connecting rods your running, but if they are stock and went thru a bearing failure session then it’s likely time for new one, forged new ones which are not only stronger, but lighter and add to performance by letting the motor rpm faster!

You may need a new oil pump which should be the 60 psi one, and a HD pump drive shaft will be needed also,

Piston wise I do not like those pistons you want to run, not so much because they have been known to crack, but because they are very very old school with there 5/64” compression rings that they use!

Pistons with 1/16” rings will make for less friction and in turn free up Hp and lower oil temps,

I would really like to see this build get to 9.5 compression and while the heads are off you could have a valve job done to install 2.11” valves and then mill the heads ,025” .

The big valve install will also pick you up some much needed intake air flow as a side benefit.