Photos and questions!
Here are the two switches in question. The one towards the back of the AC control appears to activate when in all positions except OFF for the AC/heat/vent control (I can see the dash controller move the contacts when moving left from Off and Right from off). The other one nearer the vacuum block that is actuated by the cam in the photo is the clutch control switch, which appears to break contact only when the AC/heat/vent control is in Inside or Outside (AC) positions. Otherwise it looks like it should be in contact.
First: are these two pictures/switch identifications correct (I assume so)?
Second: I would think that the clutch control switch would be in a disconnected state until the dash controller is moved to Inside/Outside AC only, when it would then energize the wire running to the compressor solenoid. But the way the cam moves and that clutch switch element moves, it looks like it moves those two surfaces _apart_ which I assume breaks the circuit (right now I don't get any continuity across the two wire connectors regardless of physical control switch position, maybe the contact surfaces need to be adjusted somewhat to get the open/closed gaps set correctly)? I'm still investigating continuity/etc there.
Third: For the master control switch, I assume the grey wire running out of the switch (brown is power in, grey would be power out) should be running straight to the Master hi-speed relay (according to 65 wiring diagram), which then activates that circuit and then the speed control switch takes over the choices of which resistor(s) to use in the circuit to control blower speed? Right now it is spliced into other grey wires which one looks like they are also the light bulb grey wire for the AC controller panel. Since there is a "cheat" wire feeding power to the hi-speed relay from under the dash (when flipped), this grey wire likely isn't doing anything right now, not sure why it would be spliced into the lighting "grey" circuit.
Kind of a mess trying to sort this out, with the "cheat" circuits wired in and I'm trying to get it back to correct and working from just the dash switches. Everything else (cabling, vacuum, etc) all looks good so it may have been that one or both of these switches stopped working so they just kind of "hardwired" in two switches under the dash instead of pulling it all apart to fix it quick. The switches move correctly from cam rotation contact so I'll continue to check continuity through them and confirm the brown wires to both are getting power with key on.
Thanks for any help!!!
