i agree with roctimus & FJ that you should be fine for just a few test & tunes to see what the car will do. you said you have drag radials, not slicks as someone said earlier... with foot braking an auto & average track prep a stock driveshaft or u-joints in good shape shouldnt break . but the weak link is probably the u-joints. for peace of mind you can upgrade to solid joints, i used moog "super strong" brand solid joints on my stock yoke shaft & have done at least 15 low 11 sec runs & probably 20 other mid to high 11sec trying to get the best time, i have M/T drag radials with an auto & foot break it. car will do 119-123mph with a 500+hp 467 stroker.
history on my driveshaft is its a stock unit from a 1974 t/a that was behind a mild 455 in my t/a i had back in the 90's that was beaten & abused daily & nightly for about 10 years & close to or over 100k miles. that car died but i saved the 455 & driveline parts for a future build.... 10+15 years later i finally got around to doing another car to use it & went with the current stroker engine i have & reused the driveshaft but had a local shop make a new 3" shaft & reuse the yokes with solid ujoints, & have been racing & abusing that car for 5+ years now, so the yokes have almost 50 years of abuse behind a torquey 455 & lots of time behind a ~600lb/ft 467 with a lot of low 11 sec runs.
however, i realize ive pushed it far enough & am planning to buy a strange D/S with 1350 front yoke before trying to go an faster or break into the 10's. i am debating on doing the rear 1350 for the same reason as roctimus because changing the pinion is a PITA from what ive read, & the chances of a rear pinion yoke breaking at this power level with an auto & radials is pretty low... & if it does break at least its at the rear of the car & not as much of a safety concern as the front. im hoping a good solid rear joint will be enough for a mostly street car & limited track use.
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