[chuckies76ta]

Well, the only way I see water moving through the block when the thermostat is closed, is the bypass from water crossover and the return from the heater core. It the thermostat is drilled with a couple of holes, then water is going to move toward the radiator. For me I want the water moving around the engine block while it warms up. Therefore a bypass is needed. Otherwise the water flow is not moving. The way I see it, water is constantly flowing through the block and when thermostat temperature is reached water starts to flow to rad which mixes with block water to cool engine. This way the thermostat maintains proper engine temperature at all times.

I also am not using the heater core in the car, but I had it setup before with mechanical pump, and I took two lines off the back of the heads and routed them to the front water crossover. I split off on side and went to the return on the water pump. I left the bypass in place. I ran a 160 thermostat and had no heating issues.

I have since gone to the electric water pump and that is how this post started for me. I think Misterp266 you got me thinking again on the way I have it setup now. I hate the thoughts of not running the thermostat. I'm going to setup my hoses like before and install my 160 thermostat and run the electric water pump and see how it goes. What I'm trying to duplicate is the way the Engineers set it up in the first place. Water in block is constantly circulating and when thermostat opens it regulates engine temp. I like it when engine stays at a proper temp. I'm starting to believe with no thermostat the engine temp will be bouncing around and not be constant.

Now, it's 2 am here and couldn't sleep. So I started putting some thoughts down. Misterp266, you got me thinking... Thank you to all that have posted.