Quote:
Originally Posted by Don 79 TA
when routing the water from the back of the cylinder heads to the water neck spacer, does that give a good reduction in temps? what have others seen?
Would i see a benefit doing that over routing the two back passages on the head to the heater nipple on the timing cover?
I have the rear passages blocked off now and the heater nipple is also blocked off
If something sort of simple like either option aids in additional cooling i'd like to try it. I have a road where i have to run 3rd gear at 30-35 and thats when my temps climb, especially past 95 degree outdoor temps
also what size adaptor would i need for the rear round port e-heads to say a #8 line would i need? I have plenty of #8 and #10 hose around, i'd just need a few fittings. figured since i planned on flushing the cooling system, this would the perfect time to make this type of change.
i run the electric water pump and 160 stat now with a good 1.25" dual core aluminum radiator and the summer night temps can still be well over 100 degrees outside.
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I removed the adapter and put everything back to the way I had it setup last summer. I don't like the idea of not running a thermostat. I routed the back of both heads to the front water crossover, and also went to the timing cover heater return. I also left in place the bypass. And drilled 2- 1/8" holes in the thermostat to remove any air. I used -10 for all my fittings and just used heater hose line for now.
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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, SD Performance E-head, Solid roller 3600 weight. Reid TH400 3:90 gear. 28" slick.
Best so far 9.95@135 mph. 1.39 60 ft.
76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend,
468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exhaust
950 Quickfuel.
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