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Old 06-06-2022, 02:07 PM
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grivera grivera is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Just south of Baltimore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirrotica View Post
So, will removing the spring lock it up? I've actually never played with the spring on a fan clutch to have hands on experience. But if that locked them in the on position, seems like someone would have stated removing the spring will fix all your cooling problems?

I'm thinking the valving needs to be controlled by the thermal spring, because acceleration and deceleration is going to open and close the valve uncontrolled.

I have seen someone weld the center shaft solid to the fan on a stock car, that didn't work out well...... Having the fan locked isn't going to work out well for many reasons.
Here is what he said about taking the tang out of the slot and letting it rest unanchored:

"I was able to do some bench testing with a hair dryer and can report some findings on the 2747 clutch at least. First, I am convinced after my testing that just laying the tang of the bi-metalic spring against the stop is a bad idea and either the clutch will be in a clutched-up condition almost all the time or at least be inconsistent. As the spring heats up the end of the tang moves counterclockwise and the valve is free to basically do whatever it wants. It can wiggle all the way from fully open to closed at will when hot with the spring not restrained. Bad idea, and the Chevy article is incorrect in saying that's a good idea."

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'69 Firebird, 400/461, 290 Eddy D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
'69 LeMans Vert, XS 350, #47 heads, TH400, 10 Bolt 3.23 gears, work in progress
‘66 Lemans, 455, 310 KRE D-Ports, HR 236/245, TH400, GV OD, 12 bolt 3.73 gears - see it here:
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