That's why in a previous post I was asking how you measured.
Just to say out loud, the bearings should be installed dry, on clean surfaces, in the block. Crank should be laid in clean & dry as well.
All caps should be torqued to spec in the required sequence, and proper lube used on the fasteners.
Remove the caps, remove the crank, reinstall the caps w bearings, retorque as done previously, then measured.
This will ensure you have the proper crush on the bearings with the block & crank intended for the completed assembly. You will get the most accurate measurements this way.
And no, you can't use plastigauge.
Additionally, all parts need to be @ 70 degrees for at least 24 hours prior, and be at the same temp when measuring.
I wish I could look up the clearance specs from my go-to notes & resources, but unfortunately, it's all in boxes at the moment. I would like to confirm if in fact a wider clearance spec is called for on the #5, or if it's specifically for only certain conditions.
If in fact the measurements you have are accurate, depending on the conditions that may be required/desired for additional clearance on #5 or not, I personally don't see anything 'wrong' with using a different brand of bearing on #5 to reach the desired clearance.
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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
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1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
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