The saga continues.
I misread his email and he said normally he'd recommend polishing the serrations, but since my crank is on the low end of the tolerance he didn't want to do that. Instead, he recommended I sand material from the end of the seal (rather than the radius) to get .020 preload, so I did.
I sent pics of the seal fitment to Wade and he said I was on the right track so I proceeded to button everything back up. I put a tiny smear of sealer under the rear main cap between the block and cap and a tiny dab on the ends of the seal. I ended up installing the seal seam with the cap/block rather than offsetting it.
After a 5 hours tilted on the stand, I've still got a slow drip off the back of the crank

The pan seal and the cap to block are bone dry, so it must be the seal. The oil is collected on bottom of the flange of the crank hub like it was before. It's not a huge leak, maybe one or two drips over the course of the 5 hours, but I'd obviously prefer not to see any leaks.
I cleaned everything off really well and will keep it angled for a while longer with the hopes that what I saw was just residual oil, but I doubt it. I know some folks have had some drips via the tip test only to have it seal up once it's running and in the car, so I'm wondering if I just roll with it and hope for the best. Frustrating.
__________________
Ken
'68 GTO - 464 - Ram Air II heads - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (
build thread |
walk around)
'74 Ventura 350
'69 AMC Javelin SST