thanks guys, never popped into my mind about the circumference change making the gears still mesh fine between the starter and ring with a different number of teeth.
Tom, thanks for the pointer on the bell vs block mount. I don't see any reference to that on the summit flywheel.
that amazon link for $300 says billet steel. The SUM-700090 from summit says nodular iron at $169
I also see parts place on ebay for $349 and they're talking about it being "early style". I've got a 73 long block under 69 everything else for the motor. so what does that mean for me?
what should I really be looking for here for material? I saw someone talking about an aluminum flywheel somewhere in my forum searches too.
I'm on a budget here and again, this car rarely gets put through any serious stress, basically a dump the clutch to impress the kiddies once in awhile but for the most part granny drives to and from shows. The current clutch (with a freshly turned flywheel at the time of the car build) only has 4000 miles on it. it started chattering on me probably 2000 miles ago but was always manageable by careful take offs with a light slip and a wee bit higher of an acceleration but last time I drove it, I know it's slipping since I could gun the gas in 4th gear, hear the motor rev up and there wasn't an accompanying rise in mph while the tach would rev up so I know it's slipping now.
I haven't torn it down yet but I'm fully expecting to see the flywheel scorched with heat cracks in it just like it had before I had it turned all those years ago so I just want to go with a new flywheel.
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