Quote:
Originally Posted by 61-63
Check the taper in the bores... ...It had 80k miles on it and .003 or less taper in the bores
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Thousands of years ago, I was in Trade School. We were told that .007 taper was the absolute limit, and only for a "grandma goes to church" engine--nothing with any performance aspirations.
The "Service Limit" for the 350 in my '88 K1500 was .001 taper. My replacement block had about .0015, I put it together and it's working fine.
There is no way I'd use plain iron rings. Inexpensive Moly-faced are as cheap as I'll go. Moly is porous, holds oil, reduces cylinder wall wear AND seals better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtobird
I had it bored for 30 over pistons. The shop that did it cut and honed the cylinder walls for something other than the Old School TRW Forged Pistons I was using.
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Most pistons are supposedly set up with the clearance built-into the piston--you'd hone to the nominal bore size, and the piston would be appropriately smaller to give correct clearance.
But I won't guarantee that all pistons are made that way. My favorite machinist wants to have the pistons in-hand so he can measure them before honing.
Rigid honing should be done with a torque plate. Dingle-berry brush honing won't need a torque plate.
Don't forget to plane the head gasket surfaces square to the crank, and to end-up with appropriate quench/squish given the compression height of the pistons you select.