I suggest taking it to a shop that has a modern rack that uses cameras for the measurements. When I pull the car on the rack and do the initial caster steer set-up, I center the steering wheel and lock it. Then I adjust the toe, the steering wheel won't move and will stay centered. The centering is done with the tie rods. So if you did a tape measure toe adjustment in your driveway it will be close enough to drive it a few miles. Also, see what kind of alignment heads the shop has. Do they mount to the wheel or the tire? Newer styles mount to the wheel treads and don't scratch the wheels. Another thing a computerized rack can tell you is the thrust angle of the chassis (frame sway and how square the tires are planted on the ground). As well as axle offset and wheelbase difference in hundredths of a degree.
We built the T-bucket frame from scratch in class and the rack shows how square it came out of our home-made jig. We can adjust the axles using the rack. We'll do the caster later on once the drivetrain is in the car and the front axle is permanently welded.
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