Quote:
Originally Posted by PAUL K
CLOYESTTF!!!
One needs to measure how many degrees pass between the movement of the cam when turning the crank. The sprocket design will make the chain appear loose but turn the cam almost instantly. The chain needs to be a bit loose or it will cost excessive power due to the friction of the chain binding on the sprockets.... I hope that makes sense.
The Rollmaster chain marks are a "reference " point. Definetly not exact. Once you've done several you start to get used to them and they work just fine. But they can definitely be confusing at first.
We should remember the old timing chains (which were much simpler) would change the cam timing eight degrees when one was thinking it was moving it four.... So those weren't ideal. The other crazy thing is when they changed from the +4/-4 numbers to the different shaped symbols referring to advance and retard things became confusing. I had a very good experienced ASE certified mechanic working for me and he misinterpreted the "symbols" and had the cam in wrong.... Then I made the same mistake a couple months later. They clarified the instructions since. Sometimes we should leave well enough alone.
The best is when you get a Rollmaster timing set that has the dot-to-dot numbers advanced 8 degrees.... Those make for a great amount of wasted time.
The gear drives will set you back sixty years in technology.
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Why do you say the gear drives will set you back 60 years in tech ?
With most industrial things, gear drives are better than chain drives. 4 WDs gear drive transfer cases were always better than chain drives.
I have yet to find someone who did not like their Milodon gear drives.
Have you had any bad experiences with them ?
I know plenty who disliked their duel idler style Pete Jacksons.