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Old 08-13-2023, 10:09 PM
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Sirrotica Sirrotica is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Catawba Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightfoot View Post
Per the detailed description on Oreilly's site: NiCopp " Bends 58 percent Easier than Steel Tubing ".
So the concensis is to go with that, and I agree it's well worth the extra cost.
That said, I wish I could find a part number with metric (10mm) fittings on it.
I rechecked the work I did three years ago, and found that I had to use an adapter for the flex hose end as well as the master cyl. So I presume all my flex hoses are 10mm on the female end. I 'gauged' the fitting with an open end wrench and it seems to confirm it. The master port is 12mm for sure.
I did find a part number for a 72" PVF line with 10mm bubble flare ends at Oreillys. So tempting, but I have to make so many bends.
If you guys say the flares are easier to make on the NiCopp, maybe I can just cut and flare them with a rental tool from Advance. I did also find a 72" NiCopp line for $22.99. The 51" line is $17.99, at both Oreilly and Advance. So that's $41 plus the union and adapters if nesassary.
I might get an 8" adaptor line with the SAE to 12mm ends just in case the 123" total runs short.

Thanks for the feedback and all the good info. The more ideas, the better my options get.
P.S. I'm doing all this work laying on the ground with the left side tires blocked up as high as I could jack them.
When I have odd fittings on the ends of the lines, even in US sized tubing, rather than going nuts trying to find the correct adapters, I cut the flares off of the ends of the old tubing and reuse the OEM fittings on the lines I make. It's soooo much easier than trying to hunt the correct adapters. With this in mind I do every thing I can do to save the OEM fittings including using a torch to get the fitting out if needbe. Heating the fitting up and quenching it quickly, will usually break the corrosion bond on the threads.

If you've ever flared copper tubing, it's simple to flare, Ni-Copp flares just as easy as copper tubing does. The nickle keeps the copper from work hardening from vibration, when copper work hardens it becomes brittle, and is suseptible to break. The people that came up with Ni-Copp did the automotive world a great service.

Amazon is usually the best pricing on Ni-Copp lines when buying a coil of it:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=nicopp+li...f=nb_sb_noss_1

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