Quote:
Originally Posted by 78w72
i have used engine enamel clear from a rattle can on lots of aluminum engine parts over the years & it works great. normal clears wont last under engine temps & fluids but a true high temp engine enamel clear will last just as well as engine paints in a can. i like the rustoleum engine enamels over plasticoat or duplicolor but im sure they are will work ok.
ive used it on aluminum intakes, valve covers, water pumps, brackets, & most recently on a set of edelbrock heads. they all look like the day it was sprayed, no yellowing or burning at all, even on the exhaust port areas of teh heads, which i expected to burn off rather quick based on what engine paint does on stock iron heads ports.
after you glass bead the intake, spray off any remaining residue with brake parts cleaner or wash it real good, then spray 2 very light coats a couple minutes apart, let it cure for a day or 2 & it should last a long time. i have valve covers that are about 9 years old & look great & the e-heads are about 3 years old with at least 3-4000 miles of summer driving as well as 20+ dragstrip runs.
yes a true powder coat clear or color would be good too but $50+ vs $5 for so far equal results is a no brainer to me. plus if you ever want to remove powder coat its a huge PIA.
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I want to put clear coat on my e-heads and intake manifold. I found Rust-Oleum Hi Temp 2,000 degree clear in a matt finish but I believe this paint requires it be baked in an over to sure it. I found the Rust-Oleum 600 degree engine clear but can only find it in gloss. I would prefer a matt finish as gloss on an intake I don't think would look natural. What am I missing any other options?