Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran
I want to put clear coat on my e-heads and intake manifold. I found Rust-Oleum Hi Temp 2,000 degree clear in a matt finish but I believe this paint requires it be baked in an over to sure it. I found the Rust-Oleum 600 degree engine clear but can only find it in gloss. I would prefer a matt finish as gloss on an intake I don't think would look natural. What am I missing any other options?
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I havent seen the 2000 matte clear, will have to check that out for future use, does it specifically say it needs to be baked to cure? If so, you could probably find a local powder coater that would let you throw it in their oven when they do a batch of parts, or let it sit in the sun on a hot day and carefully use a heat gun over the surface? Should be able to figure something out.
Does the 2000 paint say its resilient to automotive chemicals? The clear I used is good for lighter exposure to most chemicals, obviously pooled fuel over time or brake fluid will eat it, but normal light amounts of oil, coolant, even fuel if wiped up soon hasnt hurt mine.
The valve covers & misc brackets I did back in 2007 on 1 car still look great too, the E-heads & other parts I did around 2013-2014 that I mentioned in that post from 2017 also look great still, even the E-heads have no signs of failure or yellowing. I get a laugh out of people that say clear will flake or yellow fast, maybe they used the wrong stuff or didnt prep the part right, but engine clear works great in my experience & lasts a very long time if prepped & applied right, i have no reason to believe it wont still look good at 20 years & beyond.
I was a little concerned with using gloss too, at first it will be glossy, but it does dull up to a semi gloss/satin sheen in a short time after wiping off dust/dirt... but even a gloss clear looks 100x better than the chalky corroded dull look I see on many aluminum heads & intakes after a few years, I live in the upper midwest so maybe winters and condensation contributes to that more than dry warm states?
I can get current pics of the heads and intake if youre curious what they look like and give a couple tips on how I prep the heads, but heres a few pics of when it was freshly applied, 1st pic is before any run time, last 2 pics are with a couple hundred miles & dyno time. Everything looks the same 9-10 years later on this car with thousands of miles & lots of drag strip time, same for my 78 & 81 that are ~15 & 12 years since restoration.
Everything thats shiny metal has the engine clear on it, radiator tanks, brackets, valve covers, even the brake & fuel lines, some lines are pretty close to the headers too. Im still surprised the exhaust ports on the E heads arent burnt & yellowed, must be the aluminum that stays cooler than iron heads that wont hold paint. I have an aluminum HO intake now thats also lightly cleared.
Hope that helps you decide what to use.