One member asked about how oil clearance on the rod bearings were measured, then oil psi at certain engine temps was posted, oil temps are not the same as engine coolant temps.
Nobody questioned the rod length, they mentioned how the pistons should be at or above the deck in that arrangement, they are stock rods so of course they are stock length.
.035 pistons below deck seems rather low, anyone care to comment on that? Most builds try to get a lot tighter or even zero decked for optimum quench, .035 is far from ideal & no "racer" would do that if they were trying to get extra power.
Ive seen plenty of balancers with cracked hubs that, 1- werent caused by damage to the trans, just time & wear &/or internal engine balance problems over time. 2- didnt make any noises or vibrations with a cracked but not completely failed hub and the crank bolt was still tight.
I hope youre right on that theory but my 2 cents on the "ghost" noise is it wasnt from the balancer or the first claim of using 4" dryer duct on the exhaust, you said you tested the car for awhile after the trans rebuild, so if the balancer is what made that noise from being cracked... logic & reason would say it should have done it right away on first start up.
Just trying to provide some other perspective on this ordeal, guessing & assumptions are kinda pointless... with all this effort & money on fixing the heads, a few hundred more dollars & some time would be well worth it to inspect &/or fix the bottom end issues with pistons & rods. Why put that off now when everything is already apart only to hope you fixed the unknown noise but still have wacky pistons/rods.. then have to tear it all down or remove the engine again & buy hundreds of dollars in gaskets, again?
Best of luck on your plan but common sense says to do it now the right way.
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