Originally Posted by TRADERMIKE 2012
I compare Mechanics to Doctors and Medicine, because of the cause and effects on the body and the various treatments, trying to get the best treatment and medication best suited for each problem a patient comes in with.
Now, Mike has a problem with his Engine, there are many things happening, the more I dig deeper into this Engine.
I decided to repair the Cracked and damaged parts that I see today, only. There is no doubt that the unknown bottom end is not going anywhere so, it will be addressed in due time, regardless of anyone being disappointed with me, thank God you people care so much about the Pontiac Auto s continuation to survive.
Here is where we are at, it turns out that the Intake Valve seats were the ones that were milled down to accept positive seals, I stand corrected on that one, most likely done from the factory, from what you say.
As far as the Exhaust seat bosses are concerned, the Head Mechanic elected to use the black type Umbrella seals (with no lip on top) that fit tightly over the boss, rather than milling the Exhaust Bosses down for the positive seals. The Head Mechanic used the Umbrella type seal shown in the photo (posted in an earlier thread) that was black and had "no" upper lip to grab the Valve stem, unlike the Umbrella seal that I used, that stuck to the Valve stem.
In addition, one Exhaust Valve, that is located between the center of the "D"-port center area, where it is written "670" has 3 hairline cracks on the side facing the Piston. These same two Exhaust Valves received the new hardened Valve seats. Thus, it is a good thing we are performing the Pontiac cooling mod. with the 421-cooling mod.
Lou, my roommate is in the kitchen drilling the last 2 holes, one in each Head for the final part of the operation. We drill slowly with oil and work our way up in size until we are just short of the hole in the Head gasket, the last drill is to debur the cooling jacket hole.
The Stroke was measured using a depth gauge and caliper, inside the cylinder, as the piston was down in the bore.
Number one cyl. @ TDC to Deck clearance is +/- 0.023"
The thickness of the new Butler innovated metal ringed Head gasket un-crushed is 0.057".
The Deck is uncut and the letters used to denote the Pistons for that particular cylinder are easily read.
One member asked how the oil clearance on the Rod clearance was read? Ans: Using a feeler gauge from side-to-side play. We did "not" remove the Main Bearings nor the Piston Caps.
The reason for this thread being used is because it had not been used in a while. So, I elected to continue it with my information since I started this thread in the first place. I like to be able to share my information with others so that they can get the most of the internet experience without jumping around all over the place. Plus, it is good for me to remind myself if I need to.
All Ideas are welcome, different or not, I only learn from the ones that know more than myself. I absorb everything you say and you are all correct in what you believe in your own experiences, I take every word in stride.
The motor is going back together, the Heads are back, we are drilling the 421 mod. holes tonight and just finished them. One Exhaust Valve is un-usable and was replaced, due to 3 hairline fractures in the Valve face. There was too much heat I would say, in the center port area that is shared by two Exhaust Valves adjacent to one other. The 421 mod should clear up that problem, since the two cooling hole jackets merge with the new holes that we made; we inserted a long wire through them to prove it will work, by the way.
Question: I need solving, moving on past the Pistons of course, is what Harmonic Dampener to purchase.
(A)I am looking into 1967 HB Summit, PQX-2438940, $209.87, SFI rating, 18.1, Billet steel in black epoxy.
(B)Gimmick or not? FLUID GEL DAMPERS SFI RATED 254550 $222.87 in black epoxy,
I wonder what crankshaft pully hole = 3, effects installing it on my 428 Motor on both A and B means.
(C) eBay: # 265577079296 Pioneer DA 4551 $78.26
(D) Jegs ATI $111.68 085 - 916500
(E) Butler SUPER DAMPER ATI 916500 $159 95
AVAILABLE IN ALUMINUM OR STEEL.
I wonder if aluminum unsprung wait on the internal moving reciprocal parts would be worth having for takeoff reasons vs. steels strength for longevity, since the Harmonic Balancer already cracked in this area, is it worth anything?
(F) OPG(G240633) $247.99 Hub and Dampener SFI
Balancer, 2 pc, 1960-67 Pontiac
ORIGINAL PARTS GROUP.
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