Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff R
That's pretty close to the specs Melling provides on the SPC-8 cam:
https://www.melling.com/wp-content/u...ck-294-304.pdf
For what's going on here worrying about where the cam is at would not be a priority for me. FIRST, I'd find out why I have pistons and possibly connecting rods installed incorrectly, then move on to less important details like moving the cam around when it would be just fine installing it "dot to dot" with a good timing set........IMHO.....
One thing to keep in mind here and I don't know anyone else who has done it. I moved a RAIV cam 4 times in my 455 engine and street and track tested it at each position. 107, 109, 111 and 113ICL. The only place the engine even started to feel a little "lazy" was clear back at 113ICL. Even there it ran fine at the track and drove fine on the street.
This was in a car capable of DEADLY consistent drag strip runs with perfect traction. I saw less than a tenth loss in ET and less than 2mph on top end. You can't tell me that the OP would notice any difference anyplace no matter where that cam was installed in this particular build. Straight up.
I'd also mention that advancing the cam beyond two degrees slowed the car down and hurt 60' times even though it is regurgitated on these threads that "advancing the cam makes more low end torque". In reality these engines are pretty sensitive to the intake closing point and following blanket claims like that can cost us power and vehicle performance. Without direct testing we wouldn't even know it as the engine "felt" peppy, slightly more vacuum at idle speed, responsive and quick to rev at 107ICL, but with good traction at the track it ran WORSE at every point on the run..........so much for theory, and "seat of the pants" testing with these things.......FWIW....... |
You say: "One thing to keep in mind here and I don't know anyone else who has done it. I moved a RAIV cam 4 times in my 455 engine and street and track tested it at each position. 107, 109, 111 and 113 ICL. The only place the engine even started to feel a little "lazy" was clear back at 113 ICL. Even there it ran fine at the track and drove fine on the street.
Mike would like to know: "Do you remember what the operating temperatures were like at those advanced Cam timing settings and did that vehicle use AC like mine"?
"Did you have to cool off the Vehicle between race runs due to elevated timing caused tempertures"?
"Did your Vehicle experience Heat soak issues between race runs".
This is what I am experiencing presently, I had to stop and leave the hood open after driving say half an hour, you can't just pull up to a gas station and run water through the radiator like you could in 1975, when I worked in Sears gas station. With the long lines to get gas we had many people come in after waiting on line and we would cool them down leaving their autos running by flowing water across the radiators until it was safe to open the cap to add water to the plastic water bottle and radiator. My sensing heat soak issues is why I might need to re-introduce Water Wetter back into my Block. This product keeps the water molecules from foaming up next to the cylinder walls and keeps the air bubbles from forming and sticking to the cylinder walls cavitating like a Boats Prop in the water, slipping and causing aeration around the Prop for example. As long as the Friction/Heat from the pistons going up and down can conduct or convection to surrounding air, through the Iron Block or through the oil that can move the heat to coolers and to the water passages to the radiator, one can keep heat soak levels to a minimum.