Quote:
Originally Posted by 78w72
He stated .010 milled off the heads is equal to 1.66 CC reduction, and that it takes 4cc to increase compression 1/4 of 1 point on those heads... so basic math says the compression was increased less than 1/8 of 1 point, not 1/4 of 1 point. Then add in the other numbers mentioned for valve job etc. & you are actually lower than the guess of 10.5 and nowhere near 10.75.
Also, water wetter temp reduction claims are over rated from my experience using it and what I've read from other real-world experience... the "up to" 30° temp reduction is for using pure water, as you increase the amount of anti-freeze that number drops a lot, so if you have any % of anti-freeze its not reducing the temps as much as claimed... and why are some numbers on that chart actually higher than before adding it?
& BTW, there are countless STREET/RACE engines on here & out in the world, guys have been building dual purpose cars for decades... a basically stock 428, even with backwards pistons and slightly advanced cam timing is NOT a race motor.
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Mikes reply:
What you say is true about the Water Wetter product, I read the same things. I had gained 15 degrees with only some WW in my system. Using full amount with antifreeze and distilled water in a street Vehicle to lube the water pump and keep out rust in an Iron Block, what alternative do we have but to use the additives? As far as some Temp. numbers being lower. We asked ourselves that same question. Ans. It depends on what area you are testing. Remember that the WW gets on the inside of the water pump and Radiator and Heads, keeping that in context now view the reasons and try to make sense of the why's of it all, we did!
You said:
"& BTW, there are countless STREET/RACE engines on here & out in the world, guys have been building dual purpose cars for decades... a basically stock 428, even with backwards pistons and slightly advanced cam timing is NOT a race motor.
Mabe "not" a race Engine by today's standards, but in the 1950's-60's, when STOCK CAR Races, meant just that. One would go to the Pontiac shop and buy the TriPower Carbs. with the associated Cam "OTC" and purchase the Intake to go with it. These parts are considered to be race ready, because they were purchased "OTC" at the dealership, OfCourse.
Mikes 1967 428 HO Motor may have been bought "OTC" and was upgraded in 1968, by a pro-Mechanic, that even dated his job on the 428 ci HO P.S. Head. Note: in 1967 the Motors EUN number was not yet part of the Vin. number and technically this is a YK code Block that equals Auto. 4 bbl. This Engine received a 1956 specific special Tri-power Cam, exclusively mated to the Intake/ Carbs. That can only be bought "OTC" by the public and that public would have to know what those parts were good for, perhaps a racer would know these things. If one spends the money and time to install the pistons backwards, it only stands to reason that he would have Blue printed and balanced the reciprocating parts. I know first-hand that my own father did B+B his (2) 427 ci Chevy Corvette Engines that he raced in the SSCCA in 1966 and 1968. I will "not" know for sure if my Motor is B+B until I rebuild the lower end of this motor.
In my case the Motor has a build date stamped under the P.S. Head depicting MM/DD/1968, which is when a mechanic upgraded the motor to race condition of that era. Keep in mind the first thing that Royal Pontiac did was to buy the GTO without a motor and have the dealership send over a crate what? 428 ci Pontiac HO Tri-power Engine and they could Blue Print that Motor and apply the upgrade tune-up to the Motor prior to installing it into the Vehicle. This way it was a factory car with all the warrantee to go with it.