Quote:
Originally Posted by 78w72
That is a flexplate, not a flywheel...
Didn't you drive the car after rebuilding the trans and didn't mention this new knocking noise? It started in the driveway while messing with timing when you mentioned a knocking noise... pinging is not knocking. If the flexplate was cracked you should have heard it on the first drive after the trans rebuild and cam timing changes. No?
The cam was already broken in when it was first started up after installed, I hope. There is no more breaking in to do to it.
As for your defense of using 100% ATF in the engine... ATF does NOT have ANY anti wear additives that engine oil does and less detergents, ever heard of zinc/phos. (ZDDP) ... bet the cam/lifters really loved pure ATF in the engine, regardless of how long it was run, cam/lifters are under full force of the valve springs at all times & need oil protection.
Maybe the knocking sound is now a rod or main bearing, or piston slap like cliff mentioned from 7 backwards pistons? Didn't you say the "ghost noise" was from back pressure caused by a dryer duct on the exhaust pipe that put pressure on the exhaust seats? Post a video of the engine running so members can hear the knocking noise.
On through the fog...
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You stated:
Didn't you say the "ghost noise" was from back pressure caused by a dryer duct on the exhaust pipe that put pressure on the exhaust seats?
Mikes reply:
Originally, I thought that this procedure may have lifted the Valve seat bushings off their perspective seats. When we had the Heads removed, we found that the umbrella seals were off their seats. I am trying to remember, the uncut seats on this motor were the Exhaust seats, the Head Mechanic was supposed to cut them back, but changed his mind and used a tight-fitting umbrella seal that won't come off, when in service. It was also determined that the Factory originally cut the Intake Valve seats and they used a new black metal band strap type seat to hold better in place, over the Intake valve stem.
Later, it was determined as well that the Pipe over the Exhaust pipe, to lengthen the fume travel out of my Garage type Tent, was beneficial in letting us breath, but also amplified the ghost noise in the Engine, that existed at the time, so that we could hear it for the first time. Yes, the back pressure lifted the umbrella seals off their seats. Was that the noise? I doubt it now, especially after finding that the Harmonic Balancer was cracked and that this ghost noise that has yet to be fully determined (Flexplate) has been there in the background, running simultaneously the whole time.
Yes, we used the ZDDP in with the oil both when we broke in the "041" Cam and after. We used moly on the Cam lobes and bearing journals as well on break in only. We continue to use ZDDP in the oil on every oil change. With only about 7,000 actual miles that I personally have driving this Motor in this Vehicle. We should have changed the oil twice. However, with all the different problems that we have incurred over the last ten years with this project, we have replaced the filter and oil more times than I can remember, without looking back at the records.
We only used the Trans. Flush Trick once in the beginning, when I first started this secondhand project. Then now/recently as we only had a small amount of debris on top of the Lifter valley area. This leads me to believe that under all my circumstances, that if I could collect a small amount of debris as stated above and I completely flush my motor with two gallons of Trans. fluid. Add a new filter afterward. How could other flush scenarios work as well? Face it, using Amsoil in dirty oil to begin with and adding Trans. fluid into dirty oil, is just ridiculous. Besides Amsoil is using my trick when the DIY guys add Trans. fluid into their mix. So, no matter what you believe Tranny fluid is the real cleaner in the Amsoil mix. Remove the Tranny fluid and add just the Amsoil and what have you got? Why would they add Trans. fluid to their mix if it did not help?
When I drain the old oil first and then add 2 gal. of Trans. fluid to an Engine Block, run it and drain it, in half an hour of running time, the residual oil that sticks to all the residual surfaces eventually mixes with the new oil, in my case adding ZDDP. Also, the addition of Transmission fluid acts like you poured a pint of Marvel Mystery oil in the oil. What could be better for an Engine than that kind of love.
You said:
"Maybe the knocking sound is now a rod or main bearing, or piston slap."
Mikes reply:
#886 Cam
I don't think so, I drove a Ford six cyl. van, that my friend had me use to run an errand for him in. It had a Rod- knock in the lower end and as a matter of fact, it blew-up as I was driving it. Believe me, I know that sound. This is not the case in this motor, the lower end is the strongest part of this Motor.
I had this Motor up to 90 MPH with that # 886 (old TriPower Cam) installed that was worn out too. Between 70-90 MPH the secondaries and kickdown came on in full synchronicity with the Torque Converter and threw me back in my seat, until I reached 120 MPH and then moved slowly to 130 max.
STORY:
OfCourse, that is when I woke up and lost the cops, when I was running shine in the Carolinas, after I bumped my head on the steering Wheel when I went over a cliff...
P.S. I need to see what the "041" Cam can do, at the top end, so I can tell the story about this Cam, as I did with the # 886 Cam above. I will order the Flexplate tonight with the 6 ARP Bolts that fasten it to the Crankshaft, install it when it arrives and then once assembled, maybe the noise is gone. I won't discount the person mentioned that my Windage Tray may also be the culprit?