[HWYSTR455]

Ok, elaborate on the comment ' I put a timing light on it (I have a dial back light, so I can check the timing throughout the range) and it was in spec. '

What's 'in spec'?

What's your initial, total, and timing at 3000 rpm? And how much is the can adding?

When/where does it ping? Rolling of a dead stop, under load at 1800-2800, or above 3000?

If it's not been apart, the pistons are def in the hole, how much is the question.

If you haven't had the heads off, you don't know what the heads CC are.

Rated static CRs are exaggerated.

'sounded like ball bearings in a tin can with just the 93 at 9-10 degrees of timing' . You're obviously talking about initial, which doesn't mean jack.

Definitely need more (accurate) info to make any type of recommendation. If you're willing to change gaskets, you can pull the heads and determine exactly what you deck height is and head volume. Without that basic info, I don't think anyone can give any valid recommendation.

Now, just to say, most shops finish deck and head surfaces to 50 RA or better as SOP, which supports an aluminum head/iron block combo with MLS type gaskets. If it's iron/iron, it's a lot more forgiving, and you could possibly get away with an MLS gasket. Or, you could try 'smoothing' the surface some if you feel brave and lucky.

Another option is you could stack composite gaskets, that too would be if you feel brave or lucky. Neither would be advisable with a performance build, but if you're just trying to 'get away with it' for a short period of time, you could take a shot at it.

This could all be moot if whatever cam in there now is compromised or there are other factors that could be contributing, like heavy carbon build up. You could go through the trouble and try to get 'lucky', but you may end up having it fail and be forced to rebuild.

Can't cheat physics, might be better to just ride it out until you can go through and properly rebuild.



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