[Cliff R]

Engine building involves close attention to detail, careful parts selection, and exact precision, at least if you want it to lead a long heathy life.

Right to start with assume nothing. Those heads that you had done aren't going to make the grade so plan on stripping them completely down and having a full set of guides put in them and new one piece valves, springs, etc. You can retain the Pontiac retainers and locks, nothing out there is any better and most of the aftermarket stuff considerably heavier.

Toss that POS low end 3 keyway timing chain set in the nearest dumpster as well.

I'd re-use the crank and outfit the engine with a good set of forged rods and modern forged pistons (all installed in the correct direction and orientation). Modern forgings with the right alloy can be ran nearly as tight as cast pistons and you get the better ring packs, much stronger parts and full floating so you don't have to "cook" the rods to press the pins in place.

I'd stick with a flat tappet cam but insist on USA made lifters. If Comp is DLC coating them even better. The last couple of flat tappet engines I did here used camshafts that I sent out to be "coated". It's an ion-bond process and they come back looking like black chrome plated. Without any oil at all they claim lubricity equivalent to using 5W-30 motor oil. In any case it's cheap insurance and for the couple hundred bucks it costs if nothing else you'll sleep better at night.

Plan on balancing the spinning assembly, and decking and squaring the block. Meaure the bores and locate good pistons in the desired over-bore size. During that deal establish tight quench (.035-.040") and the true static compression ratio so you can make the right cam choice so it runs fine on this new fuel.

I've done more of these engines than most who will read this, and push for higher compression which makes more power at every RPM and allows for more camshaft with less negatives, so NOT part of the "lowering compression for pump gas then turn right around and install some short seat timing fancy whiz-bang lobe profile cam to get some of the lost power back" crowd.

Like your way too long running thread on the FUBAR'D engine still sitting between the fenders you'll get a LOT of advice. Mine is simple and aside from a few upgrades with better rods/pistons/ring pack I'd keep it simple and fairly close to "stock" in many areas.

I am NOT a big fan of roller rocker arms and have found most to be nothing but pieces of bovine excrement so stick with stock stamped steel with solid balls in them for most "mild" builds done here. If you go aftermarket the only ones I'd endorce are Crane Gold Race (not even sure if you can get them these days), Harland Sharp, or Crower Enduro. ALL others I've tried have failed someplace in long term service. Ya I know, lots of folks use all sorts of these imported junk rockers w/o issues but here I've have issues with everything that isn't listed above.

I think what we see with this engine building thing is that few of these engines see very much actual time on them these days. Most owners take them out on a few nice Sunday afternoons for a burger and a coke, maybe hit a local Dairy Queen car cruise once or twice, and might stop by their local track a couple of Friday evenings for a "test and tune" session. A reality check is in order there for evaluating parts. 300 miles a year vs several thousand or more isn't going to tell you if anything that you used makes the grade.

Not only did I build engines for almost half a Century I've had scores of them driven (usually limped up here), towed, trailered and dragged up here with issues right after "fresh" engine installs and NOTHING was working well. So I get to see these things at a user level and get to see what happens when poor choices are made and lack of attention to detail, using crappy parts, and poor attempts at establishing optimum timing and fuel curves to insure a good end result.

In any case after many years of your engine not making the grade with mulitiple unsuccessful attempts to get it up to par, it's certainly time to remove it from the vehicle, open up the wallet and give it the time and attention it desperately needs.......IMHO......