[Tim Corcoran]

I recently read an article in Hemmings Muscle Machines about using proper break in oil, especially for flat tappet cams. Most people know you should not use standard auto parts store oil for an engine with flat tappet lifters. For a flat tappet cam you need an oil that has a high ZDDP additive package to protect the cam and lifters not only during break in but throughout the life of the engine. There are a few different companies that offer this oil that has the high ZDDP levels to protect flat tappet cams. For those who may not know oil now days is formulated for fuel economy and catalytic converters, the higher ZDDP additive package significantly reduces the life of the catalytic converter which is another reason they took most of the ZDDP out of the oil. The modern engines have closer tolerances are are made to run on thinner oil. For my wife's Toyota RAV 4, Toyota says she must use 0-16w oil. All modern cars also run roller lifters and they don't have the extreme high pressure metal to metal contact of a flat tappet cam so it's ok to lower the ZDDP package. Now here is the detail that most people get wrong. For break in, especially for a flat tappet engine you need to us NON-DETERGENT break in oil. If you get the good oil with the extra ZDDP but it's not specifically non-detergent break in oil the detergents in the oil wash away the ZDDP at the most critical time during the first few minutes during cam and lifter break in. So make sure you use the right break in oil and also use a high ZDDP formulated oil for the life of the engine. You won't find this oil at Autozone, or O'Rileleys of NAPA, or Walmart either. Don't use diesel oil in your car as the type of ZDDP additives for a diesel engine is not the same additive. There are two basic types of ZDDP a fast acting and a slow acting, oil formulated for diesel engine uses the slow acting ZDDP and it doesn't provide the same level of protection for a gas engine with flat tappet cams. I'm no expert, this is coming from the article and personally I take it as good advice. While were talking about flat tappet cams most people know there is a specific break in procedure for flat tappet cams. The cam lobes and lifter face are not pressure oiled like the rest of the engine is and rely on splash oiling from the crankshaft. That is why you need to get the engine started right off no excessive cranking because the carb was not primed or the timing isn't right, and you don't let it idle during break in. You need to keep the RPM between 1500 and 2000 RPM for the first 20 minutes. if your engine is getting too hot or you need to make adjustments it's OK to shut if off and continue when everything is right. One more thing, valve spring pressure, if it's too high that's enough to destroy the ca/lifer during break in and it might not show up right away. Most failure is at break in and you might not know it until it continues to wear away to a point that it's really knocking on your door telling you something ain't right. Beware of running high lift long duration flat tappet cams, in most cases if your going that direction hyd roller may be a better choice. For mild performance cams like the 068 for example flat tappet may work fine. Butler Performance will build you a complete engine but they won't build an engine with a flat tappet cam. Hmmmm seems there is a message in there some place.