Quote:
Originally Posted by steve25
Your crank is cross drilled in the mains unlike a factory 3.00” main crank.
With the factory 3.00” crank the rods only get directly oiled ( hole to hole line up ) for 1% of the rotation time.
This is why all factory bearings for the 3.00” cranks are fully grooved.
With the cross drilling in the factory 3.250” cranks the rods get oiled twice as often directly,
and then on top of that the factory bearings that go in the block side are half grooved which yet further serve to get oil to the rod bearings.
So once again I say for what your doing with the motor that a 60 psi pump shimmed to 70 psi if you care to is totally fine, in fact on one of my 455 motors once I started to run two remote 2 Qt filters ( far less oil pressure restriction. ) I took the shim out, and this was on the solid roller cammed super charged motor you see in my photo.
On a drag car a 7 Qt pan is not needed since there comes a rpm with any motor where the oil volume needed just levels off and any unused volume at that point only makes for back pressure on the pump and this then can lead to spark scatter.
I guess if you have it use it as long as it keeps the oil further away from the crank then a factory pan, in fact if I had It I would run it with only 6 Qts in it once I snuck up on that level by confirming it was safe.
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This is the oil pan I run. Steffs best 7 quart, 8" deep pan that fits stock A bodies. 6 1/2 quarts in the pan, rest in the filter for 7 quarts. Atmospheric pressure is what pushes oil into the pump inlet.
Never head of only one quart of oil causing spark scatter .
https://stefs.com/shop/1730/