[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I have had 1 Blaster II and 3 Blaster SS coils go on me in a row, all around the 5-10k mile range.

My symptoms were that it ran fine for about 45 min, then it would slowly start dropping of performance from higher RPM to lower RPM, and then finally die.

It would start out as a high RPM miss, then it would continue, happening at 500 RPM less, then another 500 RPM, all the way down until it would die and not start. Each step it wouldn't go beyond the RPM the issue was at.

I even tried going to an HEI dizzy in troubleshooting that, coil in cap, and went through a few coils there.

Not sure if it was a MSD box issue or alt issue, but along the way of troubleshooting those were replaced, but after I went to a different E-core coil it all finally went away.

Now I run the Hyperspark coil, which is the potted type with a heat sink. Fingers crossed.

One tell-tale sign was as it would start missing/breaking up/RPM limited, the coils would be hot to the touch. And I mean like you could hold you hand on them at all. But I wouldn't use that as an indicator, a coil still could be bad in that case.

Valve spring. They should last to 100k miles or more. They may lose some psi, but doubt it would prevent RPM from going over 4000. Time too can add to the degrading life of springs, but each case is different, so you can say X years for all spring.

But just to say, a replace-coil test is an inexpensive test, and chances are you will be able to use the new coil as a spare or on another project.

Just like valve springs, plug wires go bad too. If they are over 5 years old, it's a good idea to replace them. Not saying that's the issue here, but if you're troubleshooting, you could scratch that off the process of elimination list.

Make sure you do the wire from coil to cap too.

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This is worth a shot here. The car has a Blaster II in it currently and I do have another known good Blaster II. I keep it on hand because these are a somewhat known item. I can swap those easy enough. I do also have a known good HEI that I can stab in to check. I'll have to unloom and repin some wires to do that however.

I haven't checked the plug wires. They went on with the FiTech, so they are 10 years old as well. Nothing overly fancy, just a set of Moroso Blue's. Probably worth replacing to check that off the list, however the car doesn't act like it's missing spark.

Originally Posted by steve25

To rule out a ignition issue get the motor up to act up, then out of gear bring it up to about 5400 rpm for 2 to 3 seconds.
If the motor runs clean and does not break up I would say your problem is not ignition related or spring pressure related, but it’s load and fuel delivery related.

Having good fuel pressure does not guarantee that the needed fuel volume is there as the firing rate goes up.

Part of the ignition control syncing is to check spark at the engine and at the computer at various points in the RPM range. I did recheck this last weekend, including above 4000 rpm. Usually have to keep the revs there for 5-6 seconds while you verify timing with the light. With the system locked at 30 degrees, I have stable readings from 1500 through about 4500 where I checked it. Might be worth holding it around 5000 or so to test.

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Maybe I missed it but you had 40 psi before and a new regulator gave you 8 more psi???

That's only 48 and these systems are designed to operate with a steady 60 psi so unless there is something I missed that you posted it still sounds like a weak pump.

After you get the pressure where it belongs it would be a good idea to clear the learn table and start over because that is definitely corrupted. Over time it may recorrect itself on its own but there isnt much sense in driving the car around with a skewed fuel table waiting for that to happen.

I should better clarify that. Prior to the FPR replacement it would run around 50 psi at idle and drop to 40 psi when you rev the engine. With the new FPR in place it provides a steady 58 psi at idle and does not drop with engine RPM. What I can't see is what it's actually doing under load vs a free rev. I only have a mechanical gauge on the inlet.

I have time to install the new pump this weekend, but weather will keep me from testing that until this week.

Originally Posted by johnta1

Is fuel tank vented?

Yes, the tank actually has two vents. One from the main tank itself and another from the pump hat. These use 1/2" fuel hose that Y together and vent in the factory 69 Firebird location.