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Old 08-11-2024, 10:09 AM
Cliff R's Avatar
Cliff R Cliff R is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Mount Vernon, Ohio 43050
Posts: 18,153
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The problem with ALL electronic points conversions is that no matter how good they work they ALL eventually fail. This will never happen when you are sitting in front of Jegs or Summit Racing, so plan accordingly.

Pertronix used to be decent, but what they are selling today is so bad I wouldn't even think about going that direction. Before I retired from building carburetors they caused me a LOT of grief. EVERYONE wants to blame the carb guy when their new engine isn't up to par. I finally, after multiple issues with new engine builds where Pertronix were installed to replace points, traced the issues down to poor function at higher RPM's. Not sure why and don't care but after getting several carbs back that had nothing wrong with them I started asking more questions and Pertronix, along with quite few of these cheap Chinese HEI "knock-offs" were actually causing all the issues.

Not meaning to get off topic but what I have found with nearly ALL aftermarket "high performance" distributors is that the folks making them "re-engineer" the weights and center cam to get the timing in faster and all-in sooner. Problem with that is more times than not some of the timing is in at idle speed making idle tuning difficult if not near impossible. Second problem with that is that a well thought out engine build with optimum compression and well chosen camshaft doesn't want, need or respond well to having all the timing dumped on it right off idle. Save that deal for when you lower the compression for pump gas and install a short seat timing cam on a tight LSA. The lack of cylinder pressure and combustion efficiency/cylinder filling is going to require that type of tuning more times than not.

Anyhow, here is an email recieved this morning DIRECTLY related to buying an aftermarket "high performance" distributor and having idle tuning issues. I get these emails ALL THE TIME. Engine idle RPM fluctuates and stays higher after the engine warms up or it idles too slow after a hot restart. It's going to be your distributor 99 times out of 100, not the carburetor.....FWIW...

"Hello Cliff,

I was finally able to get out and do some driving. Carb is working good. I’m going to put an air/fuel gauge on to check cruise and wide open throttle.

My only issue is if you shut the car off and restart it right away it starts fine but idles very low u til you give it done gas then is fine…any ideas??"

If I had a nickel for every email or phone call I've got just like this one I'd buy a second beachfront home in Oak Island NC tomorrow!........

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73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile),
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