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Old 08-27-2024, 06:08 AM
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HWYSTR455 HWYSTR455 is offline
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If you're that close and it's all new, it makes sense to try it and see how it works.

R12 is a better refrigerant, have heard that many times. I would stick to R12 if that's an option.

Be careful and make sure you are actually getting R12 and not R22. Many shops use R22 instead because of cost.

Sanden compressors are efficient, and should have modern seals, so you can do either, R12 or 134.

Both compressors function roughly the same, so no other mod is required. The original POA is also efficient, as long as they work properly, and personally would stay away from the cycling 'update' types.

If the dryer has been exposed to outside air for just about any amount of time, it should be replaced. If you installed the dryer with the caps in place and it is still capped off, you're good. But if there's a doubt, they are inexpensive enough to replace to be sure.

Finally, oil. The amount of oil in the system has a dramatic impact on cooling, and it is common for people to use too much (less is better than more). There is a table on how much one should add relevant to the items and size of the system, and provides an estimate of how much oil to add. The service manual should have a table which applies you your make/model, and sometimes the service sticker under the hood has total capacity. Between those 2 sources, you can calculate the required amount of oil. The original oil type is mineral oil (R12 compatible) and the newer 134-or other is PAG. If there has ever been any mineral oil in the system, you are pretty much stuck using mineral oil, the two from what I understand is not recommended to mix.



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