Had to pull the Super T-10 from the T/A for the second time to address a persistent leak. It's always looked like it's originating from where the midplate interfaces with the extension housing and main case on the passenger side, and lightly drips from the bottom of the midplate and runs all the way to the back where the rear seal is. Same area it leaked when I first got the car and pulled it to replace all the seals and gaskets in early 2023. All the other common leak points are bone dry.
This time, to address possible warpage of the midplate causing the leak, I'm replacing it with an upgraded billet aluminum midplate and will replace the front and rear bearings while I'm at it (gears and synchros look great and it shifts good). I'm also replacing the extension housing.
I also learned another new thing. As it turns out, you're supposed to use sealer on the long case bolt nearest the fill plug on the passenger side of the trans, according to service manual procedure. I didn't see sealer on this bolt when I first pulled the trans last year (somebody was in it before, I could tell), and I omitted it when I serviced it last year as well because I didn't know this bolt needed sealer. Sure enough, the leak DOES look like it may potentially becoming from somewhere around that area because I see oil and dampness around that bolt head. It's weird because don't see ANY recommendation ANYWHERE on ANY forum, youtube video, or walk-through that this bolt needs sealer, but here it is, black and white straight out of the service manual:
As it turns out, if you look at this particular bolt hole, you'll see it is not blind. Just like the 4 front retainer bolts, it goes through to the inside of the main case and is exposed to gear oil. Now I'm wondering if this was my leak. This is why it's so important to have a service manual.
Also, another cool tidbit. In order to avoid having to drop the counter/cluster gear this time, I was able to track down a vintage purpose-built tool referenced in the service manual J-6654-01 off eBay from a closed dealership. It's basically a bearing pulling jig that clamps around and is perfectly sized for the front bearing in the snap ring groove, and then a standard bearing puller yoke and extension will thread right into the two holes on either side of the bearing opening and you can pull the front bearing off.
Removing the front bearing gave me enough clearance to pull out the main gear drive without having to drop the counter gear (which is the official way to do it - you remove the counter gear AFTER), which was a huge relief because last time I had the trans open, I replaced the counter gear shaft and had a bear of a time repacking all the needle bearings because of the heat and humidity here in SoFlo. Didn't want to have to do that again if I didn't have to. It really is amazing how easy it is to service these cars when you have some of these old application-specific tools that the dealers got when these cars were new, as I've collected several over the years and they make these jobs a walk in the park.
So hopefully, with the combination of upgrading the midplate; replacing the extension housing; and adding sealer to this bolt and anywhere else it's needed, I'll finally nip this damn leak in the bud.
Also determined I was overfilling the transmission, too. Factory fill is only 1.20 qrts (2.44 pints), which is way below when it starts spilling out the fill hole.
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1979 Trans Am W72 400/4-Speed WS6 - Starlight Black Hardtop