Quote:
Originally Posted by steve25
Built the short block strong and with light internals so it works best for you money input and with it being built strong you up the motors power level safely with better top end parts and not loose sleep at night.
1) use hard block to make a fill up to the bottom of the water pump passages.
Believe it or not even a street motor will run a minimum of 10 degrees cooler by doing this and the bottom of your cylinder bores will not get chewed up especially if you run crank strokes longer then 4.00”.
2) run longer Aluminum rods ( greater then 6.625” along with the needed pistons ) to maximize internal weight reduction.
Why is this a big deal you might ask.
The reason is that every pound of rotational weight reduction increases vehicle performance a minimum of 4 to up to 10 times more than that same amount of weight reduction done any where else on the car.
You will be stunned at how much faster the motor buzzes up and that faster rpm gain translates directly into the vehicle accelerating faster.
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Dan Whittmore had a customer who he built a racing engine for that decided he just had to have aluminum rods. So, Dan rebuilt the engine, same cam, top end, compression ratio but with aluminum rods.
Ran the same ETs when done. Did rev quicker when not under a load. But down the track ran the same.