[HWYSTR455]

I did them on my 72 GTO, used a press, and a large impact socket to keep the control arm from squeezing together. Still not fun.

On install, if it doesn't get pressed square/straight, you may have an issue on the inside of the joint shell lining up with the 2nd opening. C-clamp helps if it's too wide. If too close together you can keep pressing the bushing in until it gets closer to lining up, then whack it with a hammer to start it. Then C-clamp on the outside to press rest of way.

You can burn the rubber out of them and collapse the shell, but the heat can cause integrity issues.

The OE control arms after years of service, or even sitting, are questionable from an integrity standpoint to begin with, I personally don't trust them. If it's an OE type resto and you don't beat on it you should be better off, but still don't trust them.

It sux when the ball joint is loose in the arm too, pretty common. The 'saver' type ball joints are a little larger to help with that, but if it's cracked, it will just crack more.

Then you have to check for cracks in other areas, and even then, back in service for a period of time and they can still crack.

The repops are 'good', I've held them in my hand, and 'appear' like the originals. The ones I saw were round bushings, but that might not be a bad thing. I would still trust them more than a used set.

I suggest replacing the repops' ball joints though, unless they specifically say Moog on them. (I don't think they do).

Honestly, if it's not going to be judged just use tubulars. They are better in all aspects except for OE look.



.