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Old 01-10-2025, 08:46 AM
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HWYSTR455 HWYSTR455 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Winchester, VA
Posts: 16,206
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I've been down this road before.

Ok, there are 2 diff types that 'locate' the spring, based off the pin. Those pads that are arched all the way across capture the pin in a pocket in the pad, and, under certain power levels, can slip out. Soooo, IMO, it's best to use the ones where the pin actually goes thru the hole in a 'flat' pad with hole.

If need be, you can use shims to adjust pinion angle with the pin type easier than the 'ridge' one. In some cases you might have to change to a longer pin. The further the pin is from the actual hole in the perch, the more chance there is to slip out.

I think the differences come from multi-application perches, like 1st-gen F and Nova stuff, but unsure. The 2nd gen F body is pretty specific I believe.

I suspect you have already sourced some from housing shops like Currie and Moser, but my suggestion would be to talk to Moser. I understand that Moser' support lately has been hit or miss, so call multiple places and talk to them. Eventually, after talking to a few people, they will understand the situation, and actually take the time to listen and think it through.

I at one time believed the best approach was to use a single leaf perch for a multi-leaf spring with no isolators, but am re-thinking that now since I'm in this same boat with reviving my 2nd gen project. With a mono-leaf perch and no isolator, the ride height changes in relation to the isolator thickness.

I'd be interested in what you find out after calling around, since I have to go thru this myself very soon.

As an FYI, Global West makes a mono to multi-leaf perch conversion/spacers, which could allow you to adjust for specific combos. Might be a good source to call Doug at GW and talk to him about perches.



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