Quote:
Originally Posted by PontiacHO
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The engine runs at 180 exactly, which is the thermostat rating. It hasn’t been driven on road, just idle time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schurkey
A fuel pump cannot function without exactly the same kind of check valve(s) as has been suggested.
Remove the fuel pump inlet hose, connect a vacuum pump to the fuel pump. Find out if the check valve leaks, and if so, how much/how bad is it?
Would be worthwhile to determine if the intake manifold is being over-heated by an exhaust restriction on one side leading to too-much exhaust blowing across the intake manifold exhaust crossover. A seized-shut (or partially-shut) heat riser (EFE) valve, for example, or the inner wall of a double-wall exhaust pipe having collapsed. Crimped exhaust tubes, etc.
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This engine has RA manifolds and the correct intake gasket for a 1972 intake on a 1969 engine. When I rebuilt the fuel pump using a Then and Now Automotive kit, I performed the blowing and suction test on the diaphragms and they operated as designed. Won’t hurt to check again now that the fuel pump is on a running engine.
I have considered an in-line electric pusher pump to prime the fuel line but wanted to check here first for any testing I may have overlooked.
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Will Rivera
'69 Firebird, 400/461, 290 Eddy D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
'69 LeMans Vert, XS 350, #47 heads, TH400, 10 Bolt 3.23 gears, work in progress
‘66 Lemans, 455, 310 KRE D-Ports, HR 236/245, TH400, GV OD, 12 bolt 3.73 gears - see it here:
https://youtu.be/RP_s1wJKm_Y?si=K0NZxoTyaGcj8Dcb
Last edited by grivera; 01-22-2025 at 02:09 PM.
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