Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbobeast
Now this might just work. Are you saying that the frame ground passes marginally enough current when the starter is cold but is insufficient whenever the starter gets hot and requires more amps?
|
Exactly, Steel is a poor conductor for high amp draw situations. Also as ambient air temp increases on any conductor the resistance increases.
On the top 11 metals used for conducting electric, iron/steel is #9. It is also continually rusting due to the moisture in the air, causing conduction problems.
Stop and think about how your OEM battery cable system is laid out. The main negative cable is 99% of the time connected directly to the engine where the highest amp draw in the whole car is. Moving the battery to the trunk doesn't change that need to have the main negative cable connected to the engine where the highest draw is.
All the secondary grounds are run through the body because the amp draw can be supported by the body and frame, also because the engineers/bookkeeper's save running a separate ground wire to all the accessories. The body ground isn't done because it's the best type of design, it's to save cost on each car.
Also think if the last time you had lighting problems and how many times the whole problem is bad grounds through the body, or frame.
Think also about a snowplow with a electric pump on it, They don't use a body/frame ground to run that pump motor. They run a dedicated ground cable to the pump from the battery, same principle. It's not cheap to run a welding cable ground wire from the battery, but it does work............
I can just about guarantee you'll sidestep you slow warm crank problems with a dedicated ground from battery to engine.