Quote:
Originally Posted by steve25
You mean a main bolt was loose or you mean a bearing was loose such that it was not snapping into place?
Thats a late thin wall block so as posted above do not order any new parts until ,
1) the block passes a mag test, especially the main web area and the main cap bolt holes.
2) the line bore of both the crank and Cam are checked.
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Steve, he said it was a '73 block, so it should be one of the stronger castings with the thicker webs. Thats good. FYI for OP, the blocks starting in mid year '75 had a lot of cast iron removed from the bulkheads that support the main journals. Thats why the '75-79 blocks that end in '557" are the weak thinwall blocks.
The good news is your '73 is very strong for what you're doing. I would suggest having a shop check the block's main bores for size and distortion. It appears that the last builder had no idea what he was doing, and that could include doing some crazy things to the block or main caps. Checking the housing bores to make sure they are within tolerance of 3.1880 to 3.1890". This is the diameter of the main caps when installed on the block and torqued to spec WITHOUT bearings. This confirms the block will retain the bearing inserts properly and this has a direct impact on bearing to journal oil clearance.
I'm terrified at this point to ask a lot of questions about the pistons or rods. Checking the piston-to-cylinder wall clearance and condition of rod big-ends should be done as well. I would not assume that any of this build could be re-used without proper inspection. I know this is a lot to digest, but I don't want you to spend the time and money just for the engine to fail again because some issue was not found and fixed.