View Single Post
  #12  
Old 08-02-2025, 05:40 PM
Skip Fix's Avatar
Skip Fix Skip Fix is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Katy,TX USA
Posts: 21,708
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulajones View Post
You shouldn't really have to permanently change the fuel line to run a test gauge on the car. On cars with factory lines I simply unhook the metal line at the carb. They usually have some wiggle room to pull it away from the carb or to the side a bit. Slide the nut back and push some rubber hose over the flare and install a clamp. I install a short piece of flare steel line to the carb and install another rubber hose and clamp. Between the rubber hose I install a "T" fitting and run a rubber line up to the windshield with a fuel pressure gauge and tape it down to the windshield.

I do it this way temporarily so I can go for a drive and watch fuel pressure for cars that owners complain of laying over. I've been doing this for decades and it quickly helps to nail down fuel delivery issues. When done I remove it all and the factory metal line is reinstalled back on the carb.

It takes a little time rigging but it's what you have to do on some of these cars when you don't want to modify things.

Q jets are a little different in what they tolerate depending on the float design so you really need to know what your pump is putting out. Best way to do that with a mechanical pump is on the car running with the setup I described above. You can bench test the carb with an electric pump if you wish to find it's limit that way but it won't answer your mechanical pump questions.
What he said!

__________________
Skip Fix
1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever!
1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand
1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project
2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune [email protected]
1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project
1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs
1964 Corvette Coupe 327 4 speed