Quote:
Originally Posted by GOAT8U2
So the smaller converter is definitely flashing higher when they both leave at 3800rpm, that's advantage 8".
On the 9" you'd need to leave higher, it's by nature having a larger ID tighter so you might've needed 4000rpm+ if possible (I say possible because there's a chance it's too tight to get there).
Losing mph but only being down .4 is interesting.
Losing .2 in the 60ft instantly killed off .4 total so then being down 3mph but not .7 total is a possible good sign.
Once you get the 9" to leave hard and get back the .2 60ft you should see a lower rpm finish line cross and possible ET gain once the car leaves at a higher rpm but couples tighter later.
The challenge here is your 330, gotta get the car to move out but then couple and it's a balance that's tough, many factors and sometimes you need a game plan and 1 track outing to implement/test and the cars unlocked.
I'd try this, note launch rpm, rom drop on shifts
4000 on 2 step, couple passes
4200 on 2 step, couple passes
You need to have all other variables the same so write down tire pressure etc etc etc.
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I know the 9" would hold the car at 4400 on the brake even before I had it loosened. Never took off that high though. The 8" would go even past what the 9" would do, never took off that high either.
The old engine would get its best ETs-MPH when I got into high gear as soon as possible. Found that out on a red light pass where I got ticked and clicked it into 2ns then 3rd right away and ran it out. So I kept doing it.
This engine all I have done is shift at 6400 to 6700. Have not tried short shifting it. I will do at least a pass giving it a try and see what happens.
I have a dash cam that I will try and get on my tach.
Maybe just buy one but the cheapest playback tach is 329 $. This one.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-44390
Maybe I will pick it up before the race.
Hey, thanks for all the advice on this converter stuff.