[gtorich]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I went thru struggling with RMS leaks, and in 3 cases, it turned out to be the pan leaking at the main cap gasket.

During a few of those instances, I went back to a rope seal, the 'grey' ones, maybe those are the 'Best' seals? Anyway, had the rope seal install down to an art, and never had a leak after. From the RMS anyway. And it takes a few times with the crank test fitting and checking, making sure there isn't too much drag.

The pan leaks were frustrating, and found the cork seal was the best to use on the cap area. In some cases it depends on the pan, but in general, I found even on some of the pans that had the grooves/holes for the rubber seals, the cork still worked the best.

The rubber ones squirm, shrink/balloon, and never worked right for me.

You do have to work the cork ones tho, test fit, trim, test fit, etc. Also would glue it to the cap with RTV, and just set the pan on it to hold it in place as it setup/dried.

Pan rail gaskets you have to be selective of too, but think I used to use the Fel-Pro fiber ones which were kind of thick. They were black as I remember. Think I have the part number somewhere.

I use studs on the pan rails now exclusively. Gluing the gasket down with them is cake, and they won't walk when putting the pan on. And yes, after a few heat cycles you should retighten.


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Hey thanks for that info, i used the one piece oil pan gasket from bop, should have cut the rubber ends off and used a cork piece over the main cap which i had but didnt use..........i guess really dumb question when taking the motor apart can they tell what was leaking, oil pan or rms, right now i have the flywheel off, cant see anything that might be leaking, im in the process of picking up a smoke machine . All good points from you guys, i just dont feel confident with this motor anymore, not sure what to do there.............also on using studs, how do you retighten after a couple heat cycles, hard to even see some of the bolts to tighten them down.