Quote:
Originally Posted by lust4speed
Haven't seen this posted, but I look for a starburst pattern of oil on the crank flange. If it is the main seal there will be oil streaks from the center of the crank down the flange. If it is from the pan or other areas the flexplate/flywheel will be coated and streaked but the crank flange will be surprisingly clean. Usually works for me but your mileage may vary...
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X2 on this, that last pic with the oil spot shows the crack end is dry, the oil looks to be coming from the rear U seal area on the pan... I dealt with the early style 3 tab rubber U seals leaking 2 times on my stroker build thinking it was the RMS and each time it was the pan U seal, not the rms.
Im a little late to the party here but have talked to Rich about this leak quite a bit, told my story of pulling the engine 2 times to bring back to the shop that did the short block thinking it was the rms, they replaced the 2 piece BOP and installed the pan with a new felpro gasket, I installed the pan the first time that leaked after a short drive about 2-3" spot sitting overnight... got the motor back after the new rms, reinstalled in the car but this time after a couple minutes idling there was a 5-6" spot in 1-2 hours of shut down!
Pulled it again to bring back he said the rms was good, this time I brought the 1/4" cork gasket and explained what I read from Mr P-body & others about using it with Ultra black RTV sealer, got a free dyno/leak test session before bringing it home, still 99% leak free 10 years later using synthetic oil and no additives.
The smoke machine is hard to see where it starts from without being there, its better to look at the very beginning for where the smoke starts from than letting it pour out where its gets all over in a tight space like that.
Heres an idea... if you are still OK with doing the work of pulling the engine, how about pulling the pan yourself & trying the thick cork gasket at the rear then a traditional felpro gasket on the side & front? Then before installing the engine, you can do the tip test where it sits tilted back full of oil for a couple hours or longer. That way the engine doesnt have to leave your garage and you're not paying another shop to replace the rms again only to reinstall the pan with that crappy rubber U seal? Worth $50 for a gasket & a tube of ultra black or grey. I Had to do this 3 times over 1 summer when all along it was the rear pan rubber seal.
Aso what type of oil pan is that? I dont see the slots for the rubber tabs to stick through.
Hope you can get it figured out this time, if I had to make a guess based on my ordeal and yours, it would be the rear pan seal over the RMS.